Silverline Magnetiser/Demagnetiser 50 x 50 x 30mm (245116)

Product Information

A typical Bunting magnetising system consists of a capacitor discharge magnetiser, a magnetising fixture and sometimes an additional automatic handling system. Bunting Magnetics Europe manufactures both magnetisers and fixtures in the UK to our own standard design or to bespoke customer designs. Although the initial outlay may be a little high, it is still more economical than replacing your magnets with Neo types which WILL, in the long run cause undue and excessive wear to your precious mechanisms. (See note) or the ever increasing cost of sending your locos by post to get re-magnetised. Note:- A standard Hornby Dublo loco with a standard (re-magnetised) magnet as originally designed, has more pulling power than you will ever reasonably need. I have demonstrated this on my YouTube channel with a (weighted) Duchess locomotive and 30 coaches in tow (over 25 feet long) without overloading the motor. Alternately my first web/google search for "DC motor re-magnetiser" showed several circuits of widely differing complexity: including the interesting link above. This one is based on an original Meccano design saw the plans somewhere, next stage is source all the electrical components if still available. Getting the roughly the right number of turns is the easy bit, work out diameter of wire, think its 0.018 of an inch divide into length of coil 2 ins, then divide into 2600 which worked out about an inch from inner row. Don't forget to thread though the inner row first, use a cordless drill, great fun watching it wind.

Hello all, hope someone can help me, im looking for a MOTOR REMAGNETIZER circuit that anybody can let me have, if not do they know where I can find one please. I tend to achieve the same thing, present layout is the largest, longer trains require stronger locomotives. I find with age some are getting better, I suspect it's due to constant use as compared to sitting in the box for most of their 60 years of life.

I've notice that most Hornby Dublo have strong magnetic fields, they will interfere with a compass if placed with 6 inches, often wonder if stored in an engine shed do they interfere with each other SIZE=12pt] Please do visit us at [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] Unit E, The Sidings, BD24 9RP.... right behind Settle Station.[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] Did try the car battery however found just connecting coils up to an old arc welder provided more magnetic strength, not even sure it's pure DC current. However it did work remaging a "problem" Duchess lowering the amps from 0.85 @12v to acceptable 0.60amps @12v So using some information about original Meccano magnetiser found some 26 gauge wire and made some coils using 3/8 pole pieces, wire coiled 2600 times. Ihave listed this as “used condition” as it is a homemade article, but all the parts are new and it’s only use has beenin testing and proving the product.

A great piece of kit from a wonderful chap who went to great lenghts to show me how it worked, re-mag'd my ailing horse-shoe Atholl and also showed me his HD layout as well- wow! The news that Ron's demagnetiser is no more is totally false as I just collected mine from him this afternoon (he lives very local). I cannot begin to tell you how much it has helped our operation, the magnetic filtration unit has been a real problem solver it has surpassed all our expectations. Its cured a 30 year plague!"volt supply - 5 circuits of a train set 'oval' in 25 seconds for most, hauling 4 SD6 coaches. (Just over 100 scale mph.) Magnetising fixtures are generally custom designed for each application, and therefore should be the first thing to consider when purchasing a magnetising system. Fixtures can be supplied with many different types of magnetisation patterns from simple 2 pole solenoids, to complex multipole systems. As a long time manufacturer of permanent magnets, in particularly bonded Neodymium ring magnets, Bunting Magnetics have been manufacturing magnetising fixtures for our own internal use for many years, and have developed a particular area of expertise in the design of multipole magnetising systems for radial or axial ring magnet assemblies or sensor magnets. The solution with the Bo-Bo is to copy the prototype and run two nose to nose. For three rail one has to have the wiring or magnet reversed of course. My reversed one is D8017. With the usage of precise meters (Gaussmeter orFluxmeter) and a modified softwareour impulse magnetizers are expandable for magnetic calibrations My loco collection is quite small at 7 so I tend to use neo magnets when the originals begin to fade as it's cheaper than having to send them off to a specialist restorer. However as neos can cause greater wear and tear to the bearings and my collection will probably expand over time I'm wondering if Ron may be willing/able to oblige possibly?

Hi Derek I see you got yours they are excellent I have worked my way through my loco's what a difference it makes to the running of them Ron was suprised to hear that he no longer makes them as he still does make them someone spreads a rumour and how how it spreads ! " Now I know Ron Dodd of HRCA builds and sells an excellent magnetiser and has done some excellent YouTube clips. However I can't really justify buying one for one or two locomotives which constantly lose magnetic strength, don't really want to use neo's either. If its for open frame motors such as Hornby Dublo, Triang etc, then it will be more efficient and lower cost to replace (or supplement) the original magnets with neodymium magnets. they are very strong and so they will lower current need and improve running lots.It's a multi tool, idea for magnetising screw drivers etc, I've a 1 inch core solenoid for spanners. Magnetic filtration has dramatically cleaned up our fluids and improved the surface finish we can offer. It extracts around 50Kg per day of ferrous waste."

Tri-ang magnets do not seem to suffer from demagnetisation, though I have found a few. X.04s respond to the same treatment and I've fixed a couple of motor bogies by simply attaching a couple of magnets to the pole pieces.Worth watching all of Ron Dodds videos, the magnetic direction is important, my pole pieces already have strong magnetic force so getting the magnet the right way is easy they attract, providing of course they don't get put in the wrong way, they are marked. A more cost effective approach would be to look into the possibility of replacing the magnetic material with one of the Neodymium type. They are available in a host of different shapes and sizes. The cost is modest and because of their strength a smaller magnet can be employed thus making it easier to make the modifications needed fit into the original motor volume. I wondered myself. I try to aim for all my Dublo locomotives to achieve the specification* speed/load haulage set out in the 'bible', allowing a few seconds for age. Most manage it, but a few excel. Vertical motors tend to be critical of brush tension, I have always found. For the 1/2" and Tri-ang motors it seems to make little difference.