Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (500ml)

Product Information

Hard work, as it needs to be kept wet; finished surface didn't flash rust and good for welding on, apparently. Apply sparingly two coats at 30 minutes interval. The first coat should be worked into pitted areas and then smoothed by brush strokes in one direction. Excess application should be avoided. The second coat should be applied at a 90 degree angle to the first. For best results leave for 24 hours after which finishing coats may be applied. Traditional paints and coatings applied to corrosion give disappointingly short-lived performance because they simply hide the underlying and continuing corrosion - the failure is first seen by blistering of the coating and the rapid breakthrough of rust. hydrate 80 provides powerful protection to rusted steel surfaces, its electrochemical function stabilises existing corrosion by converting the iron oxides into a protective metal complex, it also combines with surface moisture and oxygen depriving the corrosion process of the conditions it requires. Paints and coatings applied to a hydrate 80 treated surface demonstrate amazing improvements in long-term performance. Again, the hydrate 80 converts and forms a barrier, so things on top of that won't have any protecting properties. Even on the bodywork a stone chip or scratch can soon grow into a nasty blister, and you need to treat rust properly to stop it spreading. Rust removal involves spending hours with a wire brush or strong acidic chemicals that are dangerous to use, so it is far easier and safer to use a rust converter. These stop reaction in the metal using special ingredients, which neutralise the corrosion and allow you to paint over it.

Our Deox range of rust removers are capable of removing heavy rust, yet remain safe to use with no danger to skin or the environment. They are biodegradable and do not liberate corrosive fumes. Available in both concentrated powder Deox-C, and gel form Deox-GEL. Hydrate-80 is an excellent base for a wide range of paint finishing systems. It is preferable, but not essential to use a good quality primer before applying topcoats. Proven long-term rust prevention over partially prepared surfaces - massively increases the life of paint applied to partially cleaned steel https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/medium/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-hydrate-80-500ml-bottle-1.jpg

hydrate 80 is an excellent base for a wide range of paint finishes. It is preferable but not essential to use a good quality primer before applying topcoats.

Apply sparingly, two coats at 30 minutes interval. The first coat should be worked into pitted areas and then smoothed by brush strokes in one direction. Excess application should be avoided. The second coat should be applied at a 90 degree angle to the first. For best results leave for 24 hours after which finishing coats may be applied. https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/images/variants/icon/bilthamber/bilt-hamber-hydrate-80-500ml-bottle-6.jpg It does say on the hydrate 80 instruction sheet I have that it is purposefully made runny in consistency so as to wet the rust better. I agree that any rust converter will have rust that it cannot reach, still beneath the coating. There is no easy way, hard work with wire brushes polycarbide wheels etc. then a couple of treatments with Jenolite and a coat of the zinc primer mentioned earlier will slow the inevitable down considerably.

Rust prevention

Apart from fitting new sills at a large cost my way after lots of research is the only way to do it well and cheap. Other areas of a car i agree get rid/sand the rust away totally, not worth doing it badly. It wasn’t worth the time and effort either. Unlike the other fluids, the Rustins didn’t seem to bond to the metal at all, meaning it just sat on top of the surface. This meant it struggled to protect against our salty spray and actually started flaking off by the end of our test, revealing the bare metal underneath. Jenolite Rust Convertor Liquid

Well I'm not really any clearer to be honest. Some saying to avoid Epoxy Mastic like the plague and others (including Mr. Hamber himself) saying use it...

Powerful Rust Conversion & Protection.

But it offered very little in the way of long-term protection to our sample. The unpainted area was uniformly rusty again and it was starting to develop on the other side too. Loctite SF7503 Rust Remedy I did say its not entirely correct because i tested it myself with perfect results on bare metal and rusted metal, did you ? If you want to remove all the rust and so on now, but not complete the restoration (paint and so on) right away, i would use something like Dinitrol ML (its basically oil/wd40) It keeps the area rust free and its pretty easy to remove after when you decide its time to finish the restoration (normal panel wipe take it off in 1 sec) Downside is, if you don´t get it all off (have small spot missed or something like that) don´t expect anything to adhere to it, not even the most stubborn paints are gonna like it.