MINGDA 3D Printer Magician X,Newest Auto-Leveling FDM 3D Printers with Cortex-M4 Chip, High-Performance Motherboard and TMC Ultra Silent Print, 230x230x260mm Large Build Plate

Product Information

Finding the sweet spot is sometimes not that easy. Nevertheless, similar starting values have proven themselves for PLA, ABS and TPU. If you have problems with the print bed adhesion, you should reduce the print speed for the first layers. This will allow the filament to take longer to cool down and create a better bond to the print bed surface. Flow rate calibration is important to get the best results from your 3D printer. To calibrate the flow rate, you can print a calibration object. There are a number of different objects, but I recommend the calibration cube from Cura’s Calibration Shapes plugin. It’s a very easy object to print that will help you find the perfect flow rate. The Magician X has a 23 x 23 centimeter print bed that is equipped with a glass surface that can also be removed. In terms of height, the device prints models up to 26 centimeters tall. In the very popular Maker's Muse Video on this topic the addition of the "combing" feature resulted in nearly zero stringing, but only (at least in cura) if z hop is disabled. Combing introduced a lot of other issues especially on prints with lots of very small contours (at least in my case). MINGDA provides a couple of tiny coils of PLA with the Magician X. Personally, I don’t like these because they seem to immediately tangle as soon as you open them. Nevertheless, I used this filament as my initial material.

There are a few things to consider when printing the first layer: The first layer should be printed at a slower speed than the rest of the print. This gives the plastic more time to adhere to the build plate and prevents it from coming off as easily during printing. The first layer should also be printed at a higher temperature than the rest of the print if you have problems with print bed adhesion. This allows the plastic to flow better and form a better bond with the print bed surface.

Customer Reviews

After preheating, the actual printing process begins. Once printing is finished, the result should actually be easy to remove from the print bed. Actually, because sometimes you do have to help the Magician X carefully with a spatula. Slicer

However, these profiles are not yet adjusted to the printer and the filament and lead to poorer quality results. To achieve satisfactory results, you must change and calibrate the print settings. If the flow rate is set too high, over-extrusion will occur, which can lead to various print errors. There is simply too much filament being extruded per second that has to go somewhere. Excessive stringing or the formation of blobs can be the result. Overall, the design of the Magician X 3D Printer is what you would expect for a consumer-level 3D printer at this price point. With a typical open-frame design, this printer is solid, though somewhat bulky. When compared to other 3D printers at this price point (and cheaper), Handling the Magician X via the integrated touch display should not present you with any major problems. The menu navigation is mostly self-explanatory. After switching on, the display shows the main screen. It allows you to access the device’s essential functions via small tiles with icons. The touchscreen interface

What I like

I would like MINGDA to include the estimated remaining time somehow on the main information panel, but this may be a limitation of the firmware. However, several other 3D printer manufacturers have found ways to display remaining print time. You do, however see the actual print duration on the print completed screen: Print Complete screen on the Magician X 3D printer [Source: Fabbaloo] The 3.5” LCD touch screen is one of the larger ones we’ve seen, which many users will love! The LCD is responsive and intuitive, which we prefer over 3D printers that include twist knobs (such as the Prusa MINI+). The first step in assembly is to attach the gantry (the u-shaped part with the print head / extruder) to the station. For this purpose, there are fixtures on the top side where the gantry can be inserted. Then you need to tilt the printer and attach the gantry from the bottom using two supplied screws and the hex keys.

Layer height is the height of a single filament layer in a 3D print. Most 3D printers have a standard layer height of 0.1 mm, but this can be changed depending on the requirements of the print. A higher layer height will result in a faster print, but will also result in a rougher surface. A thinner layer height will result in slower printing, but the surface will be more detailed and smoother. And to increase the print bed adhesion of the first layer on the print bed, you should slightly increase the extrusion width of the first layer with TPU.This is a problem, as the only way to judge the remaining print time is to either somehow remember the slicer estimate, or do some arithmetic with the elapsed time and progress bar percentage. However, that was always inaccurate. But alas, these are not active slots, they are only physical storage areas for two more SD cards. This is a unique feature, but I’m not sure it’s one very many people would use.