Ghostbusters Suit Classic Toddler Halloween Costume

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On top put in a white LED and under the Vents at the top glue in 3 Blue LEDs in parallel with a 230ohm resistor. Get a 5 pence piece of a small disk of 18mm diameter and with half of it over the top edge of the foam draw around it to make a semi circle. Move the 5 pence over just slightly more than the 18mm and repeat 3 times. Solder two wires to each of the LEDs . One on the positive resistor terminal and one on the negative - take note which is which. Take the an LED Base and hot glue one LED inside feeding the wires out the exit hole in the side. Repeat for each base. Power is returned to part 3 of the board which in turn sends power to the other sound board that makes the neutrino wand sound while its active.

Next print out the circuit schematic on photo paper with a laser printer. ( I had to use the one at my work) Install the switches - ( two toggle switches on the face one above the other and one push switch on the left) Next cut 7 Wires preferably of different colours and feed them through the flexible tubing onto the rear of the neutrino. Power is returned to part 2 of the board which then feds into the 4 and gates along with the power from the arduino cycling which then in turn lights the yellow bargraph on the neutrino wand in a scale up and down motion. As a member of the paranormal extermination team known as the Ghostbusters, you'll be called upon to investigate strange situations of suspected supernatural activity. Before you sign on we need you to raise your right hand and repeat this phrase: “I ain't afraid of no ghost.” Congratulations! Suit up in your Ghostbusters costume because you're hired!

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See Image schematic with highlighted areas of what is created in Foam, it is basically the Synchronous generator , cyclotron and cyclotron band that is created out of foam. ( I also bulked up the base of the Iron arm using Foam underneath). Now push the top piece of the cyclotron over the LEDS and the N-Filter and hot glue down. It should sit nice and snug and will seal the wiring from sight underneath.

Then from here it sends power to a 555 timer chip which creates a pulse. This in turn goes into a Johnsons decade counter chip that creates a cycling power on and off swapping between pins until the reset is called at pin5. This creates the 4 cycling LEDS on the cyclotron. Connect all LEDs with positive and Negative wiring each with a 230ohm resistor on the positive leg. Injectors next, there are two of these which should be glued together and inserted into the Power cell Part. These are 18mm in diameter and 77mm in length. ( the issue with this is that there aren't many tubing's available at 18mm diameter. So if you need too use a smaller tubing and hot glue around the openings of the power cell to conceal any gaps before painting - I ended up using a child's hula hoop which was the perfect dimensions but took a little while to straighten out) I created the final circuit design using software called circuit wizard. This is a paid software that I've had for a while now. But I have included the schematic files here to be used. The initial Design was done using tinkercad again my one stop shop for everything. I also used this to create the Arduino code that will run the bargraphs. Next measure each individual part from the template and estimate the height you would need for each of these to be 3D Printed. ( Printed parts are highlighted in Red on the Proton Image)Also there is a slight error on the board schematic. When I designed it I left positive nodes to help power the Arduino and sound boards etc. In my haste I put these before the main switch so if connected they will always draw power. To eliminate this issue make sure all power connections are after switch one. Glue one end of the flexible tubing to the rear tubing of the neutrino wand and secure with electrical tape. Finally install the 2 blue bargraphs to the power-cell. Wire 10 differenct colour wires to these. One wire to two positive pins in sequence from bottom to top.

Then using a needle and red thread go around the letters until completely covered and remove the paper when complete. Solder all the negative pins together on a piece of circuit board and then solder the ground wire out the main board to this also. To create the board take the copper circuit board plate scuff the best you can with sandpaper and wire wool, wash then dry the board. On the front end pipe hot glue a flashing blue LED with attached positive and negative wires about an inch below the visible edge. Then cut a 2 inch piece of plastic clear tubing and hot glue that to the end of the pipe. Make a hole through to the other side roughly where you're going to put the N Filter, this is for the LED leads to feed to the main board below.Finally cut out a thin metal piece the same size as the opening at the bottom of the neutrino husk and glue in place. To remove any sharp edges hot glue all the way around the metal cover. Hot Glue everything except the cyclotron pieces into position on the template and glue the flexible tubing from the vacuum pump to the first casing down , see images for better explanation.

I modified an existing file on the Web to meet the needs of a working neutron gun. Here is a link to the original file Original neutron files. Then take the Yellow LED bargraph and solder 10 different colour wires to each of the positive pins. Near the end I realised my wee woman wouldn't wear this as she has a fear of noise in things and stuff pulling on her. Dont forget to include the external wire connections needed on the face of the circuit board as shown in the images. Now when you have all your 3D printed and foam parts you just need to gather up a few extra resources. These are needed for the tubing and wires to attach to on top of the synchronous generator and all Pipes.Next using an Iron apply heat and pressure on top of the board for a few minutes trying to be as evenly as possible.