Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Basilicanum Grey (18ml)

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Basilicanum Grey is a versatile color that can be used on a variety of Warhammer 40K armies. It is a great choice for painting vehicles, buildings, and even some infantry units. Here are three armies that could benefit from the use of Basilicanum Grey: Agrax Earthshade if you want I guess, could add a little definition around the rings further along the gun After that, I added Contrast: Volupus Pink on the membrenes and ears and around the eyes. Finished it off slopping on the Contrast Flesh Tearers Red on the all the claws Here I used Contrast: Space Wolves Grey& Contrast: Skeleton Horde on the bone and weapons tips. I’ll let you work out what went where.

Necrons: The Necrons are an ancient alien race that relies on a combination of advanced technology and reanimation protocols to achieve victory. Basilicanum Grey can be used to great effect on their vehicles and constructs, giving them a sleek and menacing appearance. Bandoliers and The Twelve Apostles (powder-filled bottles): Snakebite Leather (this contrasts nicely with the belts). Mephiston Red: a bright, bold red that can provide a striking contrast against the cool tones of the grey. As I neglected to take step by step photos along the way, here are the methods/recipes I used to paint the Hobgrots alongside a couple of screenshots!DONE. Really. That’s it. The basing I’ll have to cover another day, but it’s essentially Vallejo Earth Texture sprayed with a green/brown, then had a few pigments mashed on top of it before a heavy coat of pigment fixer. Very very easy and effective basing. The grass tufts are Mininatur Tufts of Desert. I will be doing another article on the Kruleboyz themselves at a later date, but if you’d like to see full video tutorials on the Kruleboyz and more, you can find them on my Patreon. Paint a few detail bits on the underside Leadbelcher, wash Nuln, good enough for stuff people will never see.

I’ve converted up a New Zealand 3NZ Division for pacific games of bolt action ( Yes there were New Zealand infantry in the Pacific, you can read about them in this excellent book “Pacific Star” by Reg Newell), these were made with a mixture of Warlord Games British Infantry, US Marines and Chindit figures, along with North Star heads in forage caps. I’ve used Osprey’s The New Zealand Expeditionary Force in World War II as a reference for these as well as photos in Pacific Star. New Zealand force being batch painted prior to base detailing and varnishing Paint the Font with Baneblade Brown, Highlight with Karak Stone and edge highlight the tips of the font with Screaming Skull. Paint the frame with Baneblade Brown. Highlight both the shoulder guard and the aquila’s skull with Pallid Wych Flesh. I didn’t highlight the wings at this point because the “feathers” are so small that the single white highlight we’ll apply in step 20 will be enough. Optional) Sponge Chipping: Weather the cars by dabbing a torn piece of foam in a dark grey, like Eshin Grey or Skavenblight Dinge, then dabbing this against the model (do this before you paint the lights). When applying, I noticed that Speedpaints are a bit thinner and runnier than Contrast, and the medium pushes the paint into the recesses more aggressively, which helps to create a smoother result even on flat areas. On the other hand, I found Contrast paints slightly easier to control because of their lower viscosity. I felt it was easier to put them on smaller details without accidentally spilling into adjacent areas.It’s then given an all-over wash of a 50/50 mix of Basilicanum Grey and Contrast Medium . Make sure this doesn’t dry in any weird pools. Heresy isn’t easy – you have to muster your forces, plan the route to Terra and make sure that your armour looks good. Fortunately, Horus Heresy mastermind and Alpha Legion commander Anuj is on hand to guide us through painting the nine Traitor Legions to a fast, Battle Ready standard with Contrast paint. Gavinthekaiser on reddit’s r/boltaction forum posted his Italian Gavinthekaiser painted with Citadel Contrast Paints in what might be one of the simplest, but effective paint schemes out there so far. Next, I drybrushed the model with Leadbelcher . I only did this on certain areas, such as the face, the top half of limbs, and hands – sections that would have light hitting them. Think of this as a selective highlight instead of an all-over drybrush.