Briwax 400g Wax Polish - Antique Pine

Product Information

Can this problem be countered with spray polish or any polish?The answer is no. In our experience, antique or period furniture is only ever finished on the outside; the carcass and drawers are always left unsealed, exposing the wood to the open environment. So spraying the polished exterior with ‘nutrient oils’ will do nothing at all. The best way to try and balance any lost moisture from the wood is by opening the windows and letting the air in. If this is not possible, place a saucer of water underneath or close by it. You could even put a plant in the saucer! There are many manufacturers out there claiming their paste wax polish is the best for your furniture. With little evidence or regulation to substantiate their claims, how are you to know which one is right or what’s in it? A good wax polish should have just the right content to provide a thin protective and sacrificial layer to the furniture, adding to the long term preservation and patination of it. Apply the polish to manageable areas at any one time, A side of chest, a single leaf or plank of a dining table, one chair or a few drawers at a time. It’s very rewarding to do it this way. Do I Need To Clean My Furniture Before Applying Beeswax Polish? Historically antique furniture will have been kept in homes where the windows and doors are regularly opened allowing the furniture to maintain its natural moisture level with free flowing air.

Furniture is affected by heat but the biggest problem for period furniture is environmental moisture variations combined with temperature variations. Antique Furniture Wax is one of the earliest forms of Wood polish on record, used for 100s of years on wood surfaces. Wood Wax was first developed from Beeswax. Beeswax has been around for 1000s of years and is the earliest form of furniture polish, recorded in history. Bees Wax Furniture Polish Petroleum jelly is also another cheap ingredient often used to create a paste wax polish. It won't dry on the surface very well, but with the ‘ wax on wax off’ method it won’t really matter as you wipe it straight off!Not to be confused with oil based finishes that are convertible coatings (they dry to a hard finish) such as Tung, Linseed and Danish Oil. The biggest mistake made when wax polishing is buffing the wax off straight after applying it.A good quality brand of wax polish will instruct you to leave the wax to dry on the surface before buffing. The wax needs to evenly coat the surface and dry. Once dry, the wax can be buffed to a soft sheen. You're not rubbing the wax off, you're buffing the wax cells smooth, so they all lie flat on the surface. This allows the light in, to reflect the beautiful wood, at the same time as acting as a naturally enhancing and sacrificial layer. If your tin or can of polish instructs you to apply and then buff after a few minutes or less, you really are doing no more than just wiping it on, and wiping it off. I go into more detail about why these brands recommend this ‘waste of your time’ later on in this article. Polishing With Beeswax: The Correct Way To Buff We have used most of the leading brands of polish in our workshop over the past 30 years but the question is what’s in them and where do the ingredients come from? If you feel you need to clean it first you can wipe over the surface with a warm soapy cloth (washing up liquid) and dry it immediately with a dry piece of towelling. How Do I Clean Off The Old Wax Polish On My Furniture?

Contains Nutrient Oils” - Wood doesn't need ‘nutrient oils’ if it has been finished. And 99.9% of all furniture sold will have been finished by the maker or manufacturer: Fact: If hand built furniture is left unfinished, even for a few days, it will start to move and if left for longer it may shrink, warp and twist. Sealing the wood almost immediately after it has been built is essential for it to be stable and hold its shape and form. So spaying a very diluted ‘nutrient oil’ will be of no benefit whatsoever and just smear over the surface. On bare or stripped woods, Sand the surface to a smooth finish in the direction of the grain. Stain the wood if necessary. On open grained woods, you can stain and seal using a Shellac Sealer, but this is optional. Apply the Supreme wax using very fine 0000 wire wool or buffing cloth in the direction of the grain and allow soaking into the wood. Remove any excess and then once dry, buff to the desired sheen level. Several coats may be added to build further sheen and protection. This can be used on all bare interior woods or furniture. Replaces the lost oils from central heating” - Again this marketing statement has its obvious appeal but lets looks at how true it is:It is not recorded in history, when a polishing wax for wood surfaces was first used, but it has been used as a furniture wax since pre- biblical times. In the 14 th century, beeswax wood polish was recorded, being used for parquetry floors in France. In the 17 th century it was recorded as being used on musical instruments such as Violins. The mixture fulfils neither the PBT nor the vPvB criteria for mixtures in accordance with annexe XIII of the REACH regulations EC We would struggle to recommend a product because we knew that the ingredients were completely unknown and of such poor quality, also of unknown origin. As a nation we are all much more aware of where products and the ingredients come from, more so than ever before.