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If the tool is faulty within 30 days of buying it, we will arrange for its collection at no cost to you and supply a replacement. Cutting a hole or a notch other than in specified areas can lead to a joist being weakened to such a degree that collapse might occur, even where the loading is below the maximum expected value, especially if made in the middle of a span as shown in Fig 3.
The maximum depth of a notch at the end of a joist (where it rests on a wall or beam) can’t exceed one-quarter of the joist depth.Holes should be no closer to the support than 0.25 times the span and no further away than 0.40 times the span
If you cannot move the tub over, try flipping it the other way around. Hopefully, there are no joists over there that pose a problem.Position bathroom vent fans so the ducts can run parallel to the joists—right up to where they exit the house. Do not staple too tight as that is bad for the wire- leave a small gap between the wire and the top of the staple The notches should be no further away than 0.25 (¼) times the span. This is to avoid the area of maximum shear force, and the area of maximum bending in the joist Where and how to drill joists for electrical cables or plumbing runs depends on what type of floor framing you have. Keep the hole at least 2 in. from the top and the bottom if it’s a dimensional lumber joist. The hole cannot be larger than one-third the depth of the joist, so the maximum hole size for a 2×12 joist (actual size 1-1/2 x 11-1/4 in.) is 3-3/4 in. diameter—plenty big enough for running cable! You can drill the holes anywhere along the length of the joist (first photo). That’s not to say that Milwaukee’s design is perfect. It just gives you that little bit of extra clearance to reach a few more places than you can with this. More Muscle for New Construction
As part of any new installation work or a re-wire, a cable, trunking or cable tray sometimes has to pass through an element of building construction, such as a floor, wall or beam, necessitating the formation of a notch or opening in the element.When installing pipework or cabling, floor or ceiling joists may need to be notched or drilled. But this could weaken the floor to such an extent that it becomes structurally unsound. You can’t simply cut, notch and bore through structural members and expect your house to remain strong and your floors flat and solid. Building “from scratch” with smart planning can limit the need for most notching and boring. It’s during remodeling—when you have to run wires, pipes, gas lines and ducts through the joists already in place—that it becomes important to know the rules about tampering with joists. Notches can only be made in the top OR bottom of the joists, (not both) within the permitted area to a maximum of 35mm.
The rim joist ( Fig. B)—the framing member that runs around the perimeter of your house and that the floor joists butt into—often gets riddled with large holes. This space is the logical exit point for dryer and furnace vents, big electrical service wires and fireplace fresh air intakes. Since the rim joist is continuously supported by the walls or foundation it rests on, the strict notching and hole-boring rules don’t apply. Just don’t create a large hole or notch directly under a group of studs that support the end of a beam, or a window or door header above. How do you work around that obstacle? One option is to simply drill from the more complicated side instead. But if that bay is too small to insert your drill into, follow these steps:Keeping the hole in the middle of the joist evenly distributes the weight of the floor above around it. Wider than a third of the board and the joist’s ability to do that becomes severely compromised. However, the different attachments are the best value here. You can easily switch out to a jigsaw attachment with a couple of different blade options . If your next project will involve both drilling holes and cutting notches, this is the way to go. DeWalt
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