TAMIYA 300058610-1:10 RC Aqroshot Vehicle (DT-03T)

Product Information

Probably. Some are bundled with ESCs, some aren't. If it was bundled with an ESC from the factory, it will be the TBLE-02 which is brushless compatible. Some hobby shops put in a different ESC if they are assembling their own bundles, and some ship with no ESC at all. Having tried several motors, tires and pinions on the DT-01 and DT-02, I've come to this conclusion for mixed on-/offroad and heavy offroad use: I've fitted the plastic driveshafts for the moment even though they don't engage just to prevent me from losing anything! Once again, rubber shielded bearing to the wheel axles...note also the waterproof esc switch cover which is a nice touch, somewhat lost if I end up fitting a different esc later! edit: oh, and Munchbox, your 'use a DT-03 suggestion' sounds very interesting. Do you know if anyone has ever tried it? I googled a bit but couldn't see anything. Thankfully I have a 13.5t sensored set up and a Metal Gear servo w Kimbrough saver spare , so they will make an instant difference.

Still, I could still press on, I've put bearings in the gearbox (metal shielded) and rubber shielded on the outdrives which is my norm now; First up, the unceremonious opening of the box, as has become typical of Tamiya of late, these space saving boxes seem to be the norm, it's a pity but I guess it keeps the costs down on the lesser kits... Next up are the steering rods. They are metal shaft with ball cup ends. They're also equal length which should really make for the nicest direct servo steering of any model I've ever built! Required for completion: 2 Channel Radio System, A Servo, Battery and Charger, Polycarbonate Paint for the Body, Tools for assembly & Tyre Glue for the Tyres.While driving it on the street and in the park, the rear wheels spin a lot. Which results in a difficult to control car spinning around as soon as you hit the throttle. Of course it is possible to slowly put on the power, but that's not the way it should be. Running on grass is not possible at all.

Oh hey, look at this rear suspension arm on the front. Seems a little large-ish so I suppose I ought to swap it out. And that's about all for now, can't go any further until the rear universal shafts arrive which should be in the next week or so all being well. That doesn't mean it won't still work. Wheel and tire choice for dt03 is something I've been googling around for a couple weeks in anticipation of my build. I'll definitely be trying wheels off my Lunchbox to see if they fit. That's all for now. A Monster Racer shell is hopefully inbound in the next couple of weeks, now I think I'll need to wait a bit to recover from the expense, more of which is no doubt to come!

Detailed tyre and rim database.

Unlike the DT-02 on which the tongue of the main chassis tub helps the gearbox screws to keep the rear end together, the DT-03 has a two piece vertically split main chassis, so the only things reinforcing the gearbox are a few more screws and two thin wafers of plastic under the gearbox that bridge the two halves. If these give way in a crash, you are likely looking at damage to the gearbox and chassis halves too. If you go brushless, any tips? I don't have soldering kit and all that (but probably will in due course if the kids take to it) Do any come with Tamiya (rather than Lipo connectors? I had a great combo from Orion - Vortex I think - on my 2010 Ansmann Pro which was ready to install out of the box. The official DT-02 heat sink set will only work for closed can motors and does not cure heat problems from wrong gearing. Without the set, the motor will be almost completely enclosed by the gearbox and get very hot even with silvercans on offroad terrain.